Shin Haru Tei, Jaya One
Ramen is our painstakingly prepared introduction to Shin Haru Tei, with no shortcuts in crafting its traditional broth, taking 12 hours to boil pork bones, trotters and skin for an authentic base. No milk is added for any artificial creaminess, no MSG is used to up its natural umami – all the goodness of the collagen-rich tonkotsu broth comes purely from the pork.
The top temptation is the Ooki Chashu Ramen, with a chunky slab of pork belly to top the ramen, succulently layered with flesh and fat, marinated in mirin and soy for an unmistakably Japanese sweetness, torched to order, a meaty companion for the thin, smooth noodles in broth that’s relatively light-textured but robust-tasting. You can also choose other broths for this, including miso, spicy or Shin Haru Tei’s fusion pesto broth (laced with basil for Japanese-Italian fusion fun).
The ramen with the full Ooki Chashu (‘ookii’ is Japanese for big) clocks in reasonably at RM28.90+, complete with all the other essential accompaniments, including a whole, irresistibly creamy-yolked ajitsuke tamago for the egg enthusiast. If you’d like the Ooki Chashu on its own, it’s RM18.90+.
Comfort can also be uncovered in rice bowls, with nine types of donburi now available, all served with miso soup. The Gyu Don is our best bet, with tenderly mellow simmered beef, sweet with onions, layered on the rice with the runniest egg (RM16.90), but the other bowls also sound well worthwhile, from the crowd-pleasing Oyako Don (with chicken and egg) and Karaage Rice (with Japanese fried chicken) to the pork lover’s Chashu, Buta Kimchi (pork slices with stir-fried kimchi), Shogayaki (pork slices with ginger sauce) and Kakuni (slow-braised pork belly), plus young-at-heart treats like Cheese Curry Rice and premium indulgences like Una Don (with grilled eel and omelette).
If you’re a hamburg (hanbagu) hunter, Shin Haru Tei’s pork rendition of these ground meat patties is super-satisfying – more flesh, nearly no filler except for egg white – with a beautifully textured bite constructed with a 30 percent fat content to 70 percent meat, with a tangy, tomato-tinged sauce to brighten up the ensemble with a lovely potato salad, tomato, broccoli and other fresh vegetables.
We’re equally impressed with Shin Haru Tei’s other protein pleasures – the Australian roast beef striploin is as enjoyable as a respected steakhouse’s, best savoured medium-rare, buoyant with citrusy yuzu kosho spicy paste for a Japanese flourish, while the Spanish iberico ribs are lip-smacking to the bone, with a firm chew and fragrant char, slicked up by a soy-based sweet sauce that’s livelier than Western BBQ glazes.
It’s rare to see a Japanese kitchen adept with all these offerings, making Shin Haru Tei a welcome entry to the Klang Valley’s food landscape. Many thanks to the team here for having us.
Shin Haru Tei
69-P1, Block D, Jaya One, Jalan Universiti, 46200 Petaling Jaya, Selangor.
Open Monday-Wednesday, 1030am-9pm; Thursday-Sunday, 1130am-9pm. Tel: 03-7931-9733
This post first appeared on eatdrinkkl.com